The big attraction in Santiago de Compostela is, of course, the Cathedral of St. James (which is the finishing point of the Camino – 400,000 or so pilgrims officially complete the Camino each year). We had a great tour of the Cathedral, its museum (no photography allowed!), and the square including the Cathedral, City Hall, a college, and our hotel (formerly the Royal Hospital).
Cathedral at Santiago de CompostelaSantiago de Compostela City HallHostal Reis Catolicos de Santiago de CompostelaSt. JamesSt. James the Moor-Slayer on City HallGravestone in the cloisterPortico of Glory12th C Romanesque SculptureMaster Matthew, the last architect of the cathedral. He signed the arches above (see next photo).
Pilgrims (and now anyone) can follow a path behind the altar and hug St. James. There was a long line.More St. James on the altar piece. Unusually, Jesus is nowhere to be found on the altar piece.Even more St. James.BotafumeiroThe Holy Door – during a Jubilee year, you can obtain a plenary indulgence by crossing the door, attending a mass, confessing, and making a donation. 2010, 2021, 2022 as a covid do-over, then 2027, 2032, and 2039.Chapel of our Lady of the pillar. Notice the scallops (the symbol of St. James).6th Century Baptismal font, spared by the Moors. Tradition says that the horse of the leader of the Moors drank from the font and exploded!Silversmiths’ Square, the traditional exit to the cathedral. Now it’s the entrance.Entrance to the Holy DoorThe Cathedral was also a fortressNothing in the city can be built higher than the lantern at the top of the Cathedral tower because it was used to guide pilgrims during a holy year.Figas – protection from the evil eyeMonastery of San Martin, the second largest monastery in SpainOur guide Fernando with his Pilgrimage certificate
We’d been warned that Sunday was a busy day in Santiago de Compostela, so we’d made reservations for lunch at Camino Curry, an Indian restaurant with an interesting story. Kamal, the owner and our waiter, is a British Hindu who did the Camino and was inspired to open the restaurant; it offers free meals for pilgrims and has a Wall of Fame with photos of those who completed the Camino. We didn’t qualify for the wall, but we did take a photo inside!
Lunch at Camino Curry
The food and service was impeccable (and there was no hake on the menu!); I’d go back if I had more time here.
Camino Curry
The route back to our hotel took us along the last 500 meters or so of the Camino, which is marked by scallop shells in the pavement.
We rested until the group’s farewell dinner, which was excellent, fun, a bit sad, and also had no hake on the menu. We are hoping to join the MIT Travel tour that Professor Binzel is organizing for the 2028 eclipse in Australia!
Today’s journey took us from Oviedo to Lugo to Santiago de Compostela. We made a stop at a rest area, which had a full rack of canned seafood (along with the usual chocolates and candies and sundries).
Tuna (two kinds!), Scallops, Mussels, Sardines, and more…at a rest stop
The petrol station at the rest area had long lines – our guide Alex told us it was because the government had announced an increase in petrol (and diesel) prices was going to take effect on Monday. It must be nice to know about upcoming price increases in advance!
Lugo is a very old town, established during the reign of Augustus Caesar in the 1st Century CE. We had a guided one-hour walk around the Plaza Mayor.
Lugo still has its entire original 3rd C wall – the only one in the world. Why? It’s made of slate, which no one wanted!Outside Lugo’s city wallPlaza mayorLugo Town Hall (across Plaza Mayor from the Cathedral)Lugo CathedralLions and Tigers and Wolves, oh my!Monument to the FoundersBack (East) side of the cathedralThe Four Apostles and Jesus at the side door of the cathedralCamino distance markersCamino trail markersThe walls are 2.1 km in length
We saw quite a few pilgrims on the road to Santiago de Compostela; the ones I could photograph from the speeding bus were in modern dress (see the top of the blog post), but there were a few in traditional robes with walking sticks, too.
We’re staying at a parador in Santiago de Compostela, the Hostal Reis Católicos, just a hundred yards or so from the cathedral. It’s 500 years old and was built by Ferdinand and Isabella as a hospice.
Interior Courtyard at Hostal Reis Católicos
Our group dinner was in the Royal Chapel. It was an impressive space, complete with several gravestones!
Royal Chapel AltarpieceGravestone in the Royal Chapel
Dinner ran very late (as usual); tomorrow, we tour the cathedral and town, have a little free time, and then our group farewell dinner.
