Viking Day

Our Viking day started with an early wakeup call and a chilly Zodiac ride to the landing stage for L’Anse aux Meadows.

Our Viking day begins
Wayne the Viking (and his lovely partner) greet us
Leif Eriksson also greeted us

We boarded school buses for the ride to the L’Anse aux Meadows National Historic Site and UNESCO World Heritage site, where Helge and Anne Stein Ingstad led an archeological excavation establishing that Vikings did visit and live in North America. The ruins that they found have been re-buried for preservation, but the depressions which led them to the site remain. There are also reconstructed sod huts which tell the story of how the Vikings lived here.

L’Anse aux Meadows
Meeting of Two Worlds
Depressions in the ground mark the spots where the Vikings lived and worked
Reconstructed Viking sod hut
Wooden lathe
Loom
Cemetery at L’Anse aux Meadows

L’Anse aux Meadows takes its history seriously; our next stop, Norstead Viking Village, takes some liberties in the interest of entertainment (and, I guess, education).

And now for something completely different – Norstead, a “Viking Village”

The Snorri Viking Ship, a replica Viking knarr which sailed from Greenland to Newfoundland in 1997 to recreate Lief Ericsson’s journey, is the pride of the village; Grom the Viking met us in the shed which houses it and told us the story.

Grom the Viking, keeper of Snorri
Deck of Snorri
Snorri’s bow

After that, we walked down to the main part of the village and did some exploring; we could have visited the seer and had our fortunes told or engaged in a little axe-throwing, but those experiences will have to wait for another visit.

The sheep enclosure
The Viking village itself
Vikings raised chickens
A proud specimen
The village trader
In the women’s hut
Inside the Viking church
The blacksmith, hard at work
Outside the Viking church

We left Norstead and got back on the bus for the hour-long drive to St. Anthony, the biggest town in the area, and our lunch at Lightkeeper’s Cafe next to the Fox Point Lighthouse. Wayne the Viking was there to greet us again!

Lunch at Lightkeeper’s Cafe
Wayne the Viking met us here, too!

The cafe specializes in fish. We had fish chowder, followed by baked salmon and halibut with a couple of fried cod tongues. After that, we were ready to walk the trails around the lighthouse and the shore to burn off a few calories!

X marks the spot!
Fox Point Lighthouse
Birds and rocks and water
Bunchberry Dogwood

Lookouts
The steps not taken
More gulls
Looking back at the lighthouse from the trail

There was a gift shop across the street with exhibits about local life (including wildlife). Diane picked up a Labradorite pendant there (no photo, sorry!).

With any luck, this will be the only black bear we’ll see on this trip
Polar bear – rumored to be very bad-tempered

We got to see the Explorer make its way in from the sea and into the channel going to St. Anthony.

Taylor, one of the expedition’s divers, had a rare day on dry land today.

We finished our day with a visit to Grenfell Handicrafts; unlike the handicraft stores we visited in India, they didn’t ply us with food and alcohol. Diane saw a T-shirt she liked, but it wasn’t available in her size, so we left with intact wallets.

Our Zodiac back to the ship was much smoother and shorter than the morning run, but we were still chilly enough to enjoy Amarula-laced hot chocolates when we returned.

Red Bay, Labrador

Earlier this month, we had the chance to see the Nâo San Juan in the harbor outside the Albaloa museum and factory in San Sebastian, Spain. They are constructing it as a replica of the San Juan, a Basque whaling ship which sank in the harbour of Red Bay, Labrador, in the late 16th Century.

Today, we were in Red Bay, and got to see the site where the San Juan sank so many years ago – and much more. It was a very busy day. We began the day by climbing the Tracey Hill Walking Trail (600+ steps, 120 meters vertical gain), then seeing the Red Bay Whaling Museum, enjoying some Labrador music, and visiting the Parks Canada site devoted to Red Bay and the Basques, followed by a dinner for the National Trust group in the Chart Room on the Explorer, hosted by two of the Lindblad/National Geographic experts on the cruise. A good time (and much wine and laughter) was had by all.

Morning view from our room

Photos from the Tracey Hill Walking Trail:

Erratic, I guess

Most of us had to choose between the boardwalk up the hill and the beach walk. Not this guy!

After the trail, we visited Whaler’s Restaurant for some light refreshment and shopping, then walked over to the Zodiac to return to the ship for lunch.

Fisherman’s Wharf, Red Bay

Fisherman’s Wharf, Red Bay

After lunch, we took the Zodiac to Saddle Island to visit the remains of the San Juan and learn more about the Basque whalers.

On Saddle Island
Reconstructed Basque try works (rendering station)
Dogberries (edible, but not worth it)
“Bernier” (a Quebec freighter that went aground in Red Bay in 1966), which is near the ruins of the San Juan.

We visited the Red Bay museum to learn more about whales and whaling.

Partial whale skeleton

A concert followed at the local church.

Music awaits
Local musician ready to play Labrador tunes for us

Finally, we visited the Parks Canada Red Bay National Historic Site for more information about the Basque whalers and how the San Juan was “discovered” in long-lost records.

Chalupa, a 400-year-old whaling boat recovered with the San Juan