Red Bay, Labrador

Earlier this month, we had the chance to see the Nâo San Juan in the harbor outside the Albaloa museum and factory in San Sebastian, Spain. They are constructing it as a replica of the San Juan, a Basque whaling ship which sank in the harbour of Red Bay, Labrador, in the late 16th Century.

Today, we were in Red Bay, and got to see the site where the San Juan sank so many years ago – and much more. It was a very busy day. We began the day by climbing the Tracey Hill Walking Trail (600+ steps, 120 meters vertical gain), then seeing the Red Bay Whaling Museum, enjoying some Labrador music, and visiting the Parks Canada site devoted to Red Bay and the Basques, followed by a dinner for the National Trust group in the Chart Room on the Explorer, hosted by two of the Lindblad/National Geographic experts on the cruise. A good time (and much wine and laughter) was had by all.

Morning view from our room

Photos from the Tracey Hill Walking Trail:

Erratic, I guess

Most of us had to choose between the boardwalk up the hill and the beach walk. Not this guy!

After the trail, we visited Whaler’s Restaurant for some light refreshment and shopping, then walked over to the Zodiac to return to the ship for lunch.

Fisherman’s Wharf, Red Bay

Fisherman’s Wharf, Red Bay

After lunch, we took the Zodiac to Saddle Island to visit the remains of the San Juan and learn more about the Basque whalers.

On Saddle Island
Reconstructed Basque try works (rendering station)
Dogberries (edible, but not worth it)
“Bernier” (a Quebec freighter that went aground in Red Bay in 1966), which is near the ruins of the San Juan.

We visited the Red Bay museum to learn more about whales and whaling.

Partial whale skeleton

A concert followed at the local church.

Music awaits
Local musician ready to play Labrador tunes for us

Finally, we visited the Parks Canada Red Bay National Historic Site for more information about the Basque whalers and how the San Juan was “discovered” in long-lost records.

Chalupa, a 400-year-old whaling boat recovered with the San Juan

Gros Morne National Park

We got off the ship today to explore Gros Morne National Park, which is a UNESCO World Heritage Site because of its scientific value. Its most visible feature is the Tablelands, which is a chunk of the Earth’s mantle which was pushed upward through tectonic processes and made visible when the crust above it eroded away over millions of years.

Serpentine (metamorphosed Peridotite)
Peridotite
Purple Pitcher Plant
Tablelands (mantle, displaced during subduction)
Glacial Valley
Roundleaf sundew (carnivorous)
Poop Soup from a pitcher plant (note the larve in the soup)

In the afternoon, we took a hike on the Burnt Hill Trail in Norris Point, a small community at the edge of the park.

Looking towards the tablelands from Norris Point

Norris Point

Another gull
Along the shoreline trail
Bonne Bay (with Tablelands)
Neddy Harbour
In a private yard across from the Anglican Cemetery

And then it was back to the ship, which is currently en route to Red Bay, Labrador.